Saturday, December 31, 2011
Thursday, December 29, 2011
|© LWatry 2011|
When I first set up my palette, many years ago, I used a book by Hilary Page - Guide to Watercolor Paints (see Amazon info). This book has information on each pigment and the brands that make them. It lists five factors: quality, reliability, lightfastness, handling characteristics and mixing potential for each of the paints. These can all be very important factors, especially lightfastness, when choosing your paints.
I use a Stephen Quiller palette (see ASWexpress store). They come in plastic and porcelain and small (for travel) and large (for the studio). I like the large center well for mixing and the ability to set the paints up like a color wheel. I don't have my paints exactly as Mr. Quiller suggests, but it works for me.
The brush that is pictured is the main brush that I use for most of my painting. It is a Golden Fleece Brush from Cheap Joes (see Cheap Joes store) and is a size #38. I have really liked this brush; it has a nice point for small areas and holds a lot of paint and water. This is not the only brush I use, but it is my favorite!
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Watercolor Classes with Lorraine Watry.
Monday, December 5, 2011
|Aspen on Watercolor Canvas Demo4 LWatry ©2011|
|Aspen on Watercolor Canvas Demo5 LWatry ©2011|
If you have not tried watercolor canvas, it can be a fun surface to work on with watercolor because it is very easy to lift color back off. I also work a little faster on canvas because you have to be a little more direct with your colors and values. You can layer, but the previous layers might lift off if you are too vigorous with your brush.
|Aspen on Watercolor Canvas Demo7 LWatry ©2011|
The Demo7 image shows the completed painting. I used three shades of yellow and some green and orange to paint in the leaves. Sometimes while a leaf was still wet I would float in a second color to give interest to the leaves. I also left some leaves very pale so that they had the look of sunlight hitting them. The finishing step was to paint some purple/blue shadows on some of the leaves to give the painting more depth.
|Aspen on Watercolor Canvas Demo6 LWatry ©2011|
In the Demo6 image you can see the side of the canvas. I decided to paint the edge a dark brown with acrylics. Right now this painting is hanging just as it is with a brown edge and no frame. Some patrons like this look. So, I will leave it this way for a while. My other options are to frame it like an oil painting with a linen liner and a frame with no glass or you can get a frame that is specifically made for floating a canvas without a matt. (Here is one link to American Frame so that you can see what a floater frame looks like.) http://www.americanframe.com/search.aspx?prodtype=Frame&keyword=floater+frames
|Aspen on Watercolor Canvas Demo8 LWatry ©2011|
In the Demo8 image you can see the edge that is now painted brown and the whole canvas was then sprayed with 3 or 4 coats of acrylic matt sealer. This will protect the watercolor from ruin if it should get wet.
Watercolor canvas works with masking and salt if you like those techniques and probably many other techniques. I have decided that instead of buying the pre-stretched watercolor canvases, I like to buy big rolls of the watercolor canvas from online stores and then stretch it to the dimensions that I want to work with. Also, I have found that the roll of canvas has a slightly different feel that allows for an easier time working with it, while some of the pre-stretched canvases almost resist the paint. Note: canvas is still not as widely accepted by the buying public because I think some are unsure if it is an original painting or a reproduction. Some shows you enter may not allow canvas, so read the prospectus carefully.